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Custom Shell Cordovan Leather Strap

Bespoke Shell Cordovan. Your Width. Your Colour. Your Stitch.

Shell cordovan is the most prized leather in the trade — cut from the dense fibre layer of a horse’s hindquarter, where the grain packs so tightly the surface takes on a deep, glassy shine. Ours comes from the Shinki Hikaku (新喜皮革) tannery in Japan, the name behind the most uniform, immaculate cordovan made.

This is the same double-sided cordovan strap we build in our standard range — cut, chiselled and stitched by hand at 2.8mm — but made to order. Choose the leather colour, the lug/buckle width (anywhere from 17/14mm up to 24/20mm), the length, the stitching style and thread colour, and whether you’d like quick-release spring bars. Because you pick the width, it fits watches a standard 20mm strap never could.

Bespoke, at the lowest cordovan price you’ll find.
The same tannery, the same double-sided build — sized to your watch and your wrist, 20mm or not.

Made to your spec.
Leather colour, lug/buckle width, length, stitching style and thread colour, and quick-release spring bars — all your call. We cut and stitch it to order.

Any width, 17–24mm.
Not a fixed 20mm: pick 17/14, 18/16, 19/16, 20/16, 21/16, 22/18, 23/18 or 24/20mm — so it fits watches an off-the-shelf strap can’t.

Double-sided cordovan.
Shell cordovan for the lining as well as the face — no cheap backing on the flesh side, for the most durable strap we can make.

Shinki Hikaku horsehide.
From the Japanese tannery prized for the glassiest, most uniform cordovan in the trade — built at 2.8mm.

Heads up — this one is built to your watch

You choose the width. Unlike our fixed 20/16 straps, the custom is cut to the lug/buckle width you pick — 17/14mm through 24/20mm — so it fits far more than 20mm-lug watches. Need a width, length or thread that isn’t listed? Choose “Others”, or email us.

Your build, your call. Leather colour, length, stitch style, thread colour and quick-release spring bars are all selectable — see every option in the Sizing & Fit tab.

Custom order — please read before you buy

By ordering, you understand this is a made-to-order custom strap: it takes 3–4 weeks to make before it is sent out, and once production has started the order cannot be cancelled.

  • Leather & Make

    1. Quality Handmade — hand cut, chiselled & stitched
    2. Leather Type Shell Cordovan
    3. Construction Double-Sided Shell Cordovan (cordovan lining)
    4. Tannery Shinki Hikaku (新喜皮革), Japan
    5. Thickness 2.8mm
    6. Buckle Polished, in your chosen width

    Made to order — you choose

    1. Leather Colour Black, Chocolate, Cognac, Green, Navy Blue, Red Wine
    2. Lug / Buckle Width 17/14mm, 18/16mm, 19/16mm, 20/16mm, 21/16mm, 22/18mm, 23/18mm, 24/20mm (or Others)
    3. Length [Long / Short end] XS 95/60, S 105/65, M 115/70, L 125/75, XL 135/80mm (or Others)
    4. Stitching Style Full Stitch or Side Stitch
    5. Stitch Colour Tone-on-tone, or your pick from our full thread range
    6. Quick-Release Spring Bars Optional (recommended)
  • Choose your width

    17/14mm, 18/16mm, 19/16mm, 20/16mm, 21/16mm, 22/18mm, 23/18mm, 24/20mm — or pick Others for anything in between.

    Choose your length (long end / short end)

    XS 95 / 60mm
    S 105 / 65mm
    M 115 / 70mm
    L 125 / 75mm
    XL 135 / 80mm

    Most people wear M. Unusual wrist or watch? Choose Others in the dropdown or tell us your exact width and length and we’ll build to it.

    Fitting it

    Add quick-release spring bars (recommended) and you can swap the strap in seconds with no tools. It’s cut to the lug width you choose, so it seats on your watch specifically.

    Building a Seiko mod? See our complete build guide .

    1. Keep it out of prolonged water. If it does get wet, let it dry naturally away from direct heat — never force-dry it.
    2. Buff with a soft, dry cloth to bring the glassy shine back up; cordovan often blooms a light haze that wipes straight off.
    3. A little cordovan cream once in a while keeps it fed. It will deepen and patina with wear — that’s the leather doing its job, not wearing out.
    1. 1x Handmade Shell Cordovan Strap — built to your spec
    2. Quick-release spring bars (if selected)

    All photos of watches with modification parts are for illustration purposes only and are not included with the strap purchase.

Questions, Answered

Everything worth knowing before you build.

How does the custom / bespoke strap work?

It's the same double-sided shell cordovan strap as our standard range, made to order. You choose the leather colour (Black, Chocolate, Cognac, Green, Navy Blue or Red Wine), the lug/buckle width — anywhere from 17/14mm up to 24/20mm, so it fits watches a standard 20mm strap won't — the length (XS 95/60mm through XL 135/80mm), the stitching style (full or side), the thread colour (tone-on-tone or a wide range), and whether you'd like quick-release spring bars. It's cut and stitched by hand at 2.8mm. Need a width or length that isn't listed? Choose 'Others' or email hello@luciusatelier.com and we'll build to it.

What lug widths does the custom strap come in?

Eight standard lug/buckle widths: 17/14, 18/16, 19/16, 20/16, 21/16, 22/18, 23/18 and 24/20mm. If your watch needs something outside that range, choose 'Others' at checkout or email hello@luciusatelier.com and we'll cut it to your measurement. (Our standard shell cordovan and cowhide straps, by contrast, are a fixed 20/16mm.)

What's the difference between full stitch and side stitch?

It's where the stitching runs. A full-stitch strap is stitched along its whole length down both edges — a cleaner, more formal line. A side-stitch (sometimes called vintage) strap is stitched only near the ends, leaving the middle unstitched for a softer, more casual look. Both are hand-stitched and equally durable; it's purely the look you prefer.

Are these straps really handmade?

Yes — cut, chiselled and stitched by hand by our leather artisans. Every stitch is placed manually rather than run through a machine.

Why is shell cordovan more expensive, and what does “double-sided” mean?

Shell cordovan is cut from a small, dense part of the horsehide, so it's scarce and costly before anyone touches it. We then build ours double-sided — shell cordovan for the lining as well as the face, where most makers use a cheaper backing leather. That doubles the cordovan in every strap: no rough flesh side against your wrist, and nothing cheaper to crack or peel. It's why our cordovan costs more than the cowhide, and why it lasts.

What is shell cordovan?

A leather from the hindquarters of horsehide, where the fibres pack so densely that the surface takes on a deep, glassy smoothness. It's among the most prized — and most expensive — leathers in the trade, which is why cordovan straps carry a premium over cowhide.

How do I care for the leather?

Keep it out of prolonged water. If it gets wet, wipe it and let it air-dry away from direct heat, never on a radiator. A soft dry cloth brings the surface back; shell cordovan can bloom a light haze that wipes straight off, and a little cordovan cream or leather conditioner a few times a year keeps either leather fed. Both darken and patina with wear — that's the leather ageing, not failing.

Can I wear a leather strap in water?

Best not to. Leather isn't waterproof — repeated soaking, sweat and salt will stiffen a leather strap and shorten its life. A splash is fine; swimming, showering or diving is not. If you want a strap for the water, rubber or nylon is the better call, and leather is for everything else.

Shell cordovan or full grain cowhide — which should I choose?

Full grain cowhide is the workhorse: the top layer of the hide with the natural grain intact, handmade and priced accessibly. Shell cordovan is the upgrade — denser, glassier, and noticeably more expensive. If it's your first handmade leather strap, cowhide is the easy start; if you already love cordovan, you know why it costs what it costs.